Excellence when you least expect it. The last day in Florianopolis, it is cloudy and cold and Tuesday seems to be the Brazilian day of rest, with all restaurants and cafes closed in this sleepy part of Floripa, the Lagoa da Conceicao.

Luckily, Chico (www.casadochico) is open and means business. Simple decor, polite waiters and we are the only customers at 3pm. Starters include a palmito salad and various Brazilian pastries – they are hot, fresh and so good that there is barely room for the main dish after finishing a bunch of them.

The lunch special is a sizzling plate of veggies and all kinds of sea food (Chico runs a local fish market and seems to have a monopoly on fresh fish) grilled in olive oil, with a side of rice. After several short breaks I have to give up eating although my palate tells me to keep going – sea food crack. I finish the meal with a short espresso and it’s time to walk back to the hotel, start packing and mentally prepare for the trip back to NY.

Obrigado chico.